The Parts You Never Think About Until it Breaks

Introduction

If you have ever upgraded a joystick or swapped out a set of tired buttons, you will know how satisfying it is to breathe new life into arcade controls. New parts feel sharper, more responsive and often look far better than what came before. But once the obvious upgrades are done, there is another layer of hardware that rarely gets talked about. These are the parts you only notice when something stops working.

In this post, I want to look beyond levers and buttons and focus on the hidden components that quietly keep everything running. They are not glamorous, and they are rarely shown in photos, but they are often the difference between a reliable cabinet and one that is constantly misbehaving.

Wiring – the unsung hero of every arcade

Wiring is probably the most overlooked part of any arcade setup. It is also one of the most common causes of faults.

Many home builds and repaired cabinets rely on cheap pre-made wiring looms. These can work perfectly well, but the quality varies hugely. Thin wire, poorly crimped spade connectors and brittle insulation all lead to intermittent inputs that are incredibly frustrating to diagnose.

A button that only works if you press it just right is rarely a bad button. Much more often, it is a loose or fatigued connector. Over time, vibration causes spades to loosen, especially in cabinets and fightsticks that get a lot of use.

Good wiring practice does not have to be fancy. Use decent gauge wire, make sure crimp terminals are properly fitted and avoid unnecessary tension on connections. Leaving a little slack makes future repairs much easier. A bit of cable braid, some heatshrink tubing, and cable clips can really make your wiring look really good, too.

Photo courtesy of Boz1978]

Mounting hardware and panel thickness

You can install the best arcade parts in the world and still end up with controls that feel wrong. Often, the culprit is the control panel itself.

Panel thickness has a big impact on how buttons behave. If the panel is too thick, snap-in buttons may not seat correctly. This can cause binding or reduced travel. Screw-in buttons are usually a better choice for wooden panels, especially older UK cabinets.

Levers are affected too. The distance between the joystick mounting plate and the top of the panel changes the effective lever height. Even a few millimetres can alter the feel more than people expect. You may want to consider changing the shaft length in your lever to complement the panel thickness. 

Washers, spacers and correctly sized screws all matter. Missing hardware or warped panels lead to uneven mounting, which in turn causes inconsistent inputs.

Microswitch alignment and wear

Microswitches are simple devices, but they rely on precise alignment. If a switch is slightly twisted or not seated flat, it may actuate earlier or later than the others.

On joysticks, worn actuators can also cause uneven engagement. One direction might feel perfect while another feels vague or delayed. This is often blamed on the switches themselves when the real issue is mechanical wear elsewhere.

Replacing switches is cheap and easy, but always check how they are mounted. Make sure the holder is not cracked and that everything sits squarely.

Encoders and signal quality

In arcade sticks and modern cabinet builds, especially those using PCs or consoles, the encoder is the brain of the setup. Many cheap USB encoders work well enough, but not all are created equal.

Poor quality boards can introduce latency, ghost inputs or random disconnects. These problems are hard to trace because everything looks fine until it suddenly is not.

A reliable encoder with good firmware support is worth the extra cost. It is not something you show off, but it underpins every input you make.

I would highly recommend looking at the GP2040-CE project (https://gp2040-ce.info/). It is an open-source project that has created firmware to run on the Raspberry Pi Pico and other boards using the RP2040 microcontroller. I personally use the GP2040-CE Advanced Breakout Board in my arcade sticks.

Fasteners, vibration and time

Arcade cabinets vibrate. Speakers, coin doors and enthusiastic gameplay all contribute. Over the years, this vibration loosens screws and nuts throughout the cabinet.

A joystick that slowly rotates or buttons that feel loose are often victims of this process. Using lock washers or a small amount of thread lock on critical fasteners can prevent problems down the line.

Wooden cabinets add another complication. Wood expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. Screws that were tight a year ago may not be anymore.

Even odd screws and bolts holding in joystick levers can be a bit distracting when playing or uncomfortable on your hands. Nice smooth coachbolts are by far the best solution.

Dust, dirt and the environment

Arcades were dusty places and many cabinets still live in garages or sheds. Dust builds up on switches and boards, absorbing moisture and accelerating corrosion.

A periodic clean can work wonders. Compressed air, contact cleaner and a soft brush go a long way. This kind of maintenance is boring but it dramatically improves reliability.

Build for the next repair

One of the best habits you can develop is thinking about the next person who has to work on the cabinet. That person might be you.

Label wiring where possible. Use connectors instead of soldering everything permanently. Leave space to remove parts without dismantling half the machine.

Arcade cabinets were designed to be serviced. Following that philosophy makes ownership far more enjoyable.

Final thoughts

Upgrades are fun. Hidden parts are not. But understanding wiring, mounting and maintenance is what separates a good arcade build from a great one.

If something stops working, chances are the problem lies in one of these overlooked areas rather than the shiny new parts you just installed. Take your time, work methodically and do not underestimate the boring stuff. It is usually doing more work than you realise.